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Crown Molding Detail - - For Sloped Ceilings Calculating angles and inside corner details for crown applied to sloped ceilings. April 2, 2. 00. 4Question. I am preparing a cabinet for installation. It's going up against a back wall where the roof line begins at about 5 feet from the floor (like a knee wall). I have a center cabinet to hold the TV and two side cabinets that step back to hold components, CD's, etc.
The customer wants a 3. Can I chase the crown along the entire roof line? If anyone has experience with this or an alternative, I'm open. The higher part of the ceiling should work, though you won't get a good fit with the very top of the crown and the ceiling. One shows you how to do it with a calculator and the other is an Excel spreadsheet set up with different worksheet tabs for different crown angles. It is all done with formulas and typical stuff is covered to save the time of having to use a calculator.
You can also input your own values and it will calculate for you. I will get more into that at the end of this. Here is how I do it on the jobsite with a scientific calculator that you can by for 1. To do this, I use a clear plastic protractor and a slide bevel. Before I buy the protractor, I always bring the slide bevel into the store and set the protractor on top of it and adjust the angle to 9.
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It should be exactly the same. The cheap plastic protectors can be off, so be careful. I will then also check at 4. I then put the protractor on the slide bevel and split the hole at the bottom and read the degrees. I divide the number I read by 2 and use in the formula below. I also need to get the angle of the crown.
This is not what most people think it is, as they use the formulas on the saws. They vary quite a bit. I stick the crown in a framer's square and mark on the square the top and bottom of the crown. I then take the slide bevel and place it on the square and adjust it so it aligns with the markings and then read the angle with the protractor. At this point I have the permanent and true angle of the crown. Read your calculator's instructions to figure out how to get this calculation. It is frequently two key presses in a row - inverse and then tangent or function.
This is what the protractor says divided by 2. This is the angle it sits off the wall. Generally it will be between 3.
The comprehensive DIY guide to cutting and installing crown molding & trim installation from the construction. The ends of your crown should look typically like these photos and. How To Cut And Install Crown Molding And.
- The majority of popular tips for installing crown molding are for . So that was the last single-piece crown molding I was going to install without a signed waiver.
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You do it like this in your calculator. Get your C value and write it down. Get your W value and write it down. Input the W value. Press the memory save button. Input the C value. Press X (times). 1.
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The Secret to Coping Crown Molding. Created out of need, the techniques are based partly on math. Once the miters are cut, I install the piece. I'm trying to install some crown moulding in a. I found this link to figure out your miter and bevel settings: How to install crown molding photos tips and the math. Am I trying to cut off too much?
The easy molding trick to help you figure out weird angles with NO MATH! Shows how to install your own baseboards with tips and tricks the pros use. How To Cut And Install Crown Molding And Trim. 7 Trim Carpentry Secrets Discover the secrets of trim carpentry. Here are seven tips from the pages of Fine Homebuilding to keep your trim carpentry looking. Coping crown molding is not thought of as a.
Press the memory recall button. Press the inverse button. Press the TAN. 1. This is your miter angle. Write it down rounded to 1/1. Input the W value.
Press the memory save button. Input the M value you just wrote down. Press / (divide). Press the memory recall button.
Press the inverse button. Press the TAN. 2. This is your miter angle.
Write it down rounded to 1/1. This works just fine for vaulted ceilings and the whole process is very fast.
It is not nearly as time- consuming as it appears here. With paint grade crown, you can measure your angle to . Typically it is something to do with the bevel angle. If it does not come out perfect, adjust your bevel angle in 1/4. Once you get it, let’s say your saw bevel is off 1 full degree, then just add or subtract that 1- degree all the time when you set the saw. The formulas are put in differently to accommodate the difference between Excel and a calculator.
The first one is 3. On this tab you will see one column on the left and one on the right. All the typical cuts for 3. Each crown angle is broken up into 3 sections.
The highlighted area in each one is the full typical perfect angle input number to put in your saw (where the angle of the wall is a true 9. Each section is broken down into different settings at . If you know the angle of your crown (let’s say it is 5. It is on the top right.
I think it's unfortunately even more complicated. Or am I missing something? The crown will set at the same angle off the back wall.
The only difference is the angle of where the walls intersect each other. Get the angle there and plug it in. Maybe it only works with the slope angle when the corners are true 9. I know it works because I gave the formula to some guys running crown on the outside of a house and said I did not know how the vaulting issues would figure in. I came back later and they were done. They said they just used the formula and it worked. They would not have pulled my leg, as they were very happy about it.
Just try it on some test pieces. I do not have a compound saw right now so I cannot try it. The only solutions are to but a block in the corner or turn the molding on the lower wall flat to match the molding on the gable.
Plinth block can be nice. This is especially true if that is the look you are after. This is easily figured by measuring the angle of the vault. If the angle is 1.
Optionally, you can tilt one the full 1. I did it the half and half way. The naked eye can barely tell it was tilted and is only drawn to the corner where they align. You may want to back- cut the top back edge (unseen) of the straight wall crown so that the front top edge is tight to the ceiling.
The rest is up to you. As you can see (I did not shade it), the crown on the straight wall is tilted.
Both pieces were cut on a true 4. This looks fine on an outside miter and it is all you need. I never even noticed that the outside crown was tilted the extra full amount because it looks correct in relationship to the overhang above. I do not think this is the best way to do an inside miter on a vault, but you can do it this way. You just have to tilt it inward, instead of outward, the full amount.
By doing that, you only need the formula and to measure the wall angle at the corner just like if the ceiling was not vaulted. Looks fine, doesn’t it? The tilting of the crown makes a lot of sense, and I believe that it would not be very noticeable. I hope I remember this if or when I need it! I was incorrect to say that the angle to the wall stays the same.
You would still use the same crown angle at the wall for figuring in the formula, but you would not nail it on at that angle. You were right to question it. I certainly learned something here. This leaves us four options that I can see. A. Use the standard crown angle at the wall and tilt the crown as much as necessary for the straight walls. Split the difference of the crown angle to the wall by dividing the vault angle by 2 and adding or subtracting this 1/2 difference between the crowns.
I do not know how this would be input in a calculator, but cutting a few pieces would answer this fast. Use a plinth block. D. Add a short piece that is similar to a self- return to allow us to split this difference on the vaulted wall at the corner.
In order to join the two planes, you must eight tip the horizontal crown to a new spring angle so it matches the 'length' of the miter on the rake crown (which looks terrible and on a steep ceiling requires two different sizes of crown with the same profile) or you must cut a transition piece between the two planes. I can certainly see your point about the look if the vault angle is too steep.
All and all, I do not like the transition piece. I would opt for a decorative plinth instead, if I could, and just cheat the angle on the lesser vault angles. Splitting the difference will also allow for a steeper angle before you get into a bad- looking situation.
The situation with using two different crowns would require custom knives and a CAD station to scale the crown appropriately. Then the profile would have to be rotated to the cutter angle of the machine to get the exact profile when cut. The chances on this ratio being exact to match your vault angle is almost none.
It is doable, but not cost- effective for the typical job. It's been done that way for centuries.
I've done it that way inside homes many times: used 2 1/4 S- Cove crown on the gable or rake, and 3 1/2 or 4 1/4 (depending on the rake) on the horizontal runs. Of course the spring angle still must be dialed in on the horizontal run, though you can often keep it close to the desired angle when you use two different sizes of crown, but I've never attempted to cut those inside miters on a miter saw.
I've always coped them because it's a bastard cope and a difficult one. I like the look, too, but it's definitely Victorian/Gothic and not at all right for every home. There are other aspects to the process that I also find challenging. Still, everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
How To Install Crown Molding Yourself. We’ve successfully added crown molding to Clara’s bedroom and I’m feeling quite proud. It still turned out just fine, but a combination of factors (being tired from book shoots, being short on materials, it being my first time, etc, etc) nearly made me swear off installing crown molding ever again. But I’m glad I didn’t because this time it went much more smoothly and the results are well worth the effort. So let me back up, tell you how I did it, and explain why crown molding went from one of my most dreaded projects to one I’ll surely be doing again. First, I purchased my materials and let them sit in our house for a week so the wood could acclimate to our home (the key is letting it expand or contract before it’s on the wall, since if you nail it in and then it contracts or expands on the wall you’re left with cracked or bowed molding). I bought the standard 3 5/8.
I had read great reviews of it and considering my love of the Kreg Jig, I figured it was worth the $3. Spoiler alert: I love this thing (perhaps it and my Jig can be sister wives or something). And no, they haven’t twisted my arm to say this. It’s basically a platform on an adjustable angle so you can cut your crown molding at the same angle that it will sit against the wall. Sounds simple, and it is, but this is a huge help when it comes to cutting crown (it was getting my wood to stay at this angle while cutting it last time that gave me hours of trouble). To find the angle the cutting guide should be set at Kreg includes an Angle- Finder tool so you can determine the “spring angle” – or the angle at which the crown tips away from your wall. Apparently most moldings sit at either 3.
Now the cutting guide is ready to help you cut. But to get my saw ready to cut, I had to figure out the angles on my walls because – as anyone who has looked carefully at their walls before knows – not every corner is exactly 9. And these not- quite- right angles can mess you up if you’re not careful. Thankfully the Kreg kit also comes with a handy little Angle- Finder tool. So after measuring and recording every angle, I could figure out how my miter saw should be turned to give me the right cuts. Luckily most of my corners were very close to 9. For the non- so- perfect corners there was a bit of extra math involved that I won’t get into here because it depends on how your particular saw is labeled, but the instruction booklet that came with the Kreg has a great illustration for this.
And while I was on a roll, Sherry helped me take precise length measurements from corner- to- corner along each wall of the room using a tape measure (this went MUCH faster with an extra set of hands, btw). So definitely try to recruit someone else to help you measure from corner to corner along the ceiling line (as opposed to measuring along the floor and assuming the ceiling’s the same, since often times it’s not). Another thing that I was constantly getting mixed up last time I tried to tackle crown molding was exactly which direction I should be cutting the wood. Which way does my saw go? Which side of the blade do I put the wood on?
For some reason my brain doesn’t visualize it very well, especially when having to mentally toggle between cutting inside corners and outside corners (of which Clara’s room has both, gah!). Luckily, the Kreg tool helped me out there too. Right on the guide there are some little stickers that show how your blade should be angled and where you should place your wood to get each of the four most popular cuts. Life saver. The other important thing I was reminded from the Kreg instruction book is that when cutting a piece of crown molding you have to turn it upside down, so that the bottom (the part that sits against the wall) faces up. I totally would’ve forgotten this had I not read the instructions. So with my measurements all taken, my Crown Pro all set up, and my saw blade angled I was finally ready to get cracking, er, crowning (er, nevermind, that sounds like I was giving birth – and I’m pretty sure birth doesn’t involve this much sawdust). In addition to my Kreg taking the guess work out of cutting, the other thing that made this crown project ten billion times easier was having my nail gun (the one we bought to install board & batten last week).
I can’t even begin to describe how long it took me to hammer in all of the nails by hand for our last crown installation adventure, so just going pop- pop- pop with the nail gun was the best feeling in the world. I think it took me just about 2 hours to get all of the molding cut and nailed in place this time.
Which is a miracle considering last time it took me two hours just to figure out how to make my first cut. And all- in- all, things turned out quite nicely in my opinion. Here’s an un- caulked corner for your viewing pleasure. One shortcoming of the Kreg tool is that it doesn’t really address scarf joints – the ones where two pieces of crown meet along a straightaway, not at a corner. This happens when your wall is longer than your piece of molding and – since I could only fit eight foot pieces in my car – I had three of these joints in the room.
Luckily I was able to figure it out on my own pretty quickly, but I did screw up a couple of pieces because the Kreg guides hadn’t made that part as dummy- proof as the rest of it. Since the actual installation didn’t take me nearly as long as I thought, we even had time before Clara needed her room back (for the ever- important nap) that we could get our caulking done. We just used white paintable Dap caulk (made for windows, doors, and moldings) to fill all of the seams (like those pictured above) along with nail holes. We also ended up caulking the line where the molding meets the ceiling (even if though there wasn’t a noticeable gap, it made it look a lot more seamless to do that around the entire room).
See, much better. And the stuff isn’t even painted yet! So yeah, I do still have to paint it – since there are some parts where the primer is pretty scuffed up – but even still, we’re very happy with the results and, as Clara would say after she uses the potty successfully, “I’m so proud.”Oh yeah, and since I didn’t need all eight of the pieces that I purchased (I only had to cut into one of my back- up pieces for that confusing- at- first scarf joint) our material cost ended up being $6. Add the cost of the Kreg Crown Pro ($3. We’ve seen enough house listings that say “crown molding throughout” to know that it’s a nice selling point – and now we’re one room closer to a fully crowned house. With my new found crown- fidence (see what I did there?) I’m gonna tackle Clara’s big girl room, the guest room, and even our freshly board & battened hallway so that every room in the house (except for closets, bathrooms, and our little laundry nook) will have crown molding. And who knows, I might just go crazy and do those at some point if I’m craving some quality nail gun time.
Well, probably not the closets? Or have you had a similarly discouraging first experience with crown, only to crack the crown molding code on your second attempt? More posts from Young House Love.